New here, but old timer from the other site...Help!

[Die Sinker]

Hi folks,
Before I retired from using MasterCam in my real job, I always went to eMastercam for some help. That was way back in ancient times with MasterCam V9.1! I've been retired now for over 18 years and still use MC V9 in my home to design and make parts in my home shop for 1/8th scale ride-on trains.

My issue now is that I finally had to replace my 27 year old HP 4P laser printer for a new one. Of course everything is USB now. In those days when my HP 4P was hooked up to my computer through LPT1, I could PLOT. Today, I can't do that anymore because of the USB connection to the printer and the old software doesn't recognize USB. Still have my old white SIM for DESIGN from the mid-nineties!

I have been trying to get around the system by doing a HARDCOPY of a drawing and then converting that to a PDF file. But I haven't found a way to make this new printer actually PRINT a full size accurate print (like PLOT) that I can take into my home shop to machine. Any suggestions?

I did try an old version of Acrobat Reader V9, but it doesn't seem to print exactly 100% as the software suggests it does.

Thanks folks.

Gary Armitstead
Burbank, CA 91501

[Matthew Hajicek]

Put a pen in your spindle!  I've seen spring loaded pen holders for using a CNC as a plotter.  Barring that, maybe you can mess with print scaling until it comes out right.  I assume you're laying the print on the work and using it as a cutting guide?  That's the only reason I can think of it would have to be scaled exactly.

[Die Sinker]

Thanks for the reply Matt, but my problem is a little more "complicated" than just putting a pen in a spindle.


First of all, I'm only using DESIGN V9 and I idon'thave an NC mill at home.....wish I did though. The reason I need an exact PLOT is that I am working on a 1/29th model locomotive (the kind that you run outside on huge layouts, usually in a garden). I'm helping an old friend with a custom built model of a certain locomotive that is not made or sold by any manufacturer in the world. He is building the model using some existing parts that are made and I am drawing the remainder of the body for this engine and then we will send the files to a professional 3D Printing company in Illinois. Therefore my drawing has to be exact to be able to fit and mate with my friends parts. He is in Gig Harbor, WA. You can now see the logistics involved with this project.

We have received an early quote for this 3D printed body and it is in the $1000-$1200 range. If I can get the plots exact like I was able to do before the demise of my old HP 4P with the proper printer cables and printer ports (as shown in the parameters of SCREEN, PLOT, then I can send these drawings in the mail and he can see what I've drawn and if it meets the criteria for his parts. If my friend had MasterCam, I could easily send the files straight to him and there wouldn't be this problem. He's not a computer person and definitely not cad work. I have been the one talking with the engineers at the 3D printing company. This locomotive body will be printed on a $2M machine using powder as the material.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Gary

[J Coulston]

Would an adapter work to plot to the "new" USB printer?  LPT1 to USB

Tripp Lite 6ft USB-A to Centronics 36-M/M Adapter, Black (U206-006-R)

John

[Die Sinker]

Hi John,
I too, thought about using an adapter cable as you indicated. But I have an old friend (also a railroad hobbyist in the 1/8th scale ride-on trains), who still works for MasterCam here in So. Cal and he suggested that a USB cable/printer adapter LPT1 could wreak havoc with the SIM in that same line. In other words, the SIM AND the USB cable have to work together and at the same time the USB has to be "isolated".

This would seem to be an easy "fix", but is now a real head scratcher . That is the reason for trying to "scale" a HARDCOPY in Acrobat Reader and then just printing the drawing by changing the scale factor at the time of the actual printing process.

It might help to tell you about the computer I'm using. It is actually a new PC built to old standards. Still using XP Pro SP3, "new" video cards with drivers that still work with MasterCam. My computer guy was also able to get a video card that has Open/GL capability! This PC is not hooked to the internet at all. My everyday computer is a fairly new MacBook Pro with Autodesk Fusion 360 installed. But that software has a steep learning curve for this 77 year old considering I have been working with MasterCam since 1989-90! The old DOS  version 3 MasterCam!

Thank you for the suggestion of the adapter.

Gary

[Matthew Hajicek]

Can you reverse engineer the friend's existing parts into the computer, and then check fit with your part?

[Die Sinker]

Here's link to the company that my friend and I are collaborating with to make this model locomotive.

https://www.buildparts.com/idea-center/Miller91">https://www.buildparts.com/idea-center/Miller91

Hi Matt,

I became involved in this project about 10 months ago. My friend and I are old friends from our Jr. Hi and High School, college days. Known each other since the late fifties when we were playing with trains even then. He had mentioned to me about wanting to build this locomotive as something on his "bucket list", so I volunteered to help with the drawing so he could get files to take to a professional 3D printing company. My friend found this company on the internet when he was doing research to find someone familiar with railroad models. Shapeways (some of you probably already known about these folks) are well known in various hobbies and individuals "share" files with other hobbyists. What caught my friend's attention was a picture of a locomotive similar to the one we are doing. It was actually one that the owner of this company did for his Dad! We contacted the President of this company and had a conference call with him back in April of this year. We both had several questions about 3D printing and what types of files they needed to complete this model. Quite a bit to learn for both of us although I was a little more familiar with the engineering aspect of doing this and was able to communicate with the owner regarding tolerances and resolution of the printing process. Also the best materials to use and the type of 3D processing.

Getting back to your question about reverse engineering......my friend had already completed about 18 months of precise modeling when I became involved. It's called "Kit bashing" in the hobby. Using readily available materials and parts that can be made into the model you desire. Therefore, one third of the body is already completed which establishes some of the scale and fitting of various locking areas with the completed body and the new 3D printed body. Some of these locks are as accurate as some of the dies I used to make! And just about as complicated! I'm checking parts using calipers and my friend is using measuring tapes!! Therefore "reverse engineering" is not feasible. But accurate plots are a lot better to use and he can visually see areas that I have drawn and compare to other models (much smaller) of the particular locomotive he wants.

Once the 3D printed body is made, the the folks at BuildIdeas will do the hand finish work (benching in our trade) to complete the model and do a base coat of paint. Lots of time and money invested in this model and I sure don't want a mistake.

Please watch the video on this page that shows how this company built this scale model 1927 Miller Racer. Beautiful model. I think you guys will enjoy the technology involved here. State of the art stuff!

This is what I'm dealing with.

I was able to try something today to get a work-around to PLOT in MC V9. I did a HARDCOPY and then saved it as a Cute PDF file. Printed that pdf in Acrobat Reader XL at 100%. Check a dimension on that file and reduced the scale to a new value. Re-printed the file again and it came out perfect. This is the hard way to do this, but at least I can get him a scale drawing he can actually use to verify that the section drawn is OK. I will know the EXACT dimensions that are on the drawing. We should be within .005 or so and definitely close enough for my friend.

Gary

[byte]

I have one of those 3 1/2 gauge locomotives that runs on steam and coal at home.

[Die Sinker]

[quote="Thee Byte™" post_id=1312 time=1609184565 user_id=50]
I have one of those 3 1/2 gauge locomotives that runs on steam and coal at home.
[/quote]

How cool is that!

Did you build this engine from a kit or RTR? 3-1/2 inch gauge are rare. I'm anxious to hear more about it.

I have been a member of Los Angeles Live Steamers for over forty years. I started in the hobby by building a Little Engines 1 inch scale side tank steamer. That was 1956 and I was 13. My grandfather encouraged me and helped some of the funding. He also owned a drop forging plant and it had a machine shop. That was my introduction to the trade. I eventually was involved in "G" scale garden railroading and then into the large ride-on scales 1-1/2 in/ft and up.

Dennis Neil is a MasterCam reseller and tech support here in Anaheim. I introduced him to the hobby when he was my tech guy and he has become deeply involved now.......looking for his first engine to run at Orange County Model Engineers here in So. Cal.

[Matthew Hajicek]

[quote="Die Sinker" post_id=1290 time=1609125376 user_id=126]
Check a dimension on that file and reduced the scale to a new value. Re-printed the file again and it came out perfect.
[/quote]

Sounds like Bob's your uncle!  Good luck on the project!